Varanasi Ghats in August

October through March offers the best weather for exploring. Temperatures hover around 25°C during the day and drop to a comfortable 10°C at night. The winter months also see fewer monsoon-related cancellations of boat rides. Diwali in November transforms the ghats into a sea of floating candles. Thousands of oil lamps line the steps, and the evening aarti ceremony becomes even more spectacular. But expect massive crowds and book accommodation months ahead. Avoid April through September unless you enjoy 45°C heat and humidity that makes breathing difficult. The monsoon season from July to September brings flooding that can make some ghats inaccessible. Dev Deepawali, fifteen days after Diwali, sees every ghat lit with millions of earthen lamps. It's the most photogenic time to visit, but hotel prices triple and the crowds become almost unbearable.