Oaxaca Food Scene in May

October through April is prime time. The weather's perfect for market wandering, and it's harvest season for many local ingredients. November brings the chapulines – grasshopper season – if you're feeling adventurous. December means ponche navideño and buñuelos on every corner. But here's the insider tip: visit during Día de los Muertos in early November. The bread of the dead is incredible, and families share traditional recipes you won't find any other time of year. Avoid July and August – it's rainy season, and half the outdoor food stalls shut down. Plus, the humidity makes that third helping of mole feel like a mistake.