Navigli in September

April through June brings perfect aperitivo weather - warm enough for canal-side tables without summer's sticky heat. September and October might be even better - locals return from vacation and the energy ramps back up. July gets swampy and crowded with tourists who don't understand aperitivo timing. August empties out as Milanese flee to the coast, leaving mainly visitors and closed restaurants. Winter aperitivos happen indoors, which kills half the Navigli magic. But December's Christmas markets along Darsena create their own charm. Weekday evenings offer the best local vibe - weekends turn into tourist central, especially Saturday nights when the canals become one giant outdoor party.