Araya Totoan
Classical Japanese ryokan — sukiya-style rooms, tatami floors, seasonal kaiseki dining, and some of the most carefully designed hot spring bathhouses in the Hokuriku region. The connection to artist Rosanjin adds a genuine art-and-craft identity that goes well beyond decoration.
Book the free shuttle from JR Kaga Onsen Station at least one day in advance — it's the smoothest way in and takes about 10 minutes
Why It Matters
Ranked among Japan's finest traditional inns. Founded in 1639 by order of the Maeda clan lords. The ryokan draws the highest volume of hot spring water in Yamashiro — 100,000 liters per day directly from source — water that won a gold medal at the International Hygiene Exhibition in Germany in 1911. The renowned artist Kitaoji Rosanjin spent time here in 1915, and his calligraphy, ceramics, and screen paintings are still on display. The Hanare Arisugawa villa, built for the Imperial family without a single nail in the late 1800s, now operates as a private guest suite.
Araya Totoan is a traditional Japanese ryokan in Yamashiro Onsen with over 800 years of history, now in its 18th generation of family ownership. The inn sits in the center of the hot spring resort town but feels like a mountain retreat once you're inside — quiet corridors, wild garden views, and natural light filtered through bamboo screens and shoji paper. What sets it apart is meticulous attention to the tiniest details: how shadows fall across a wall, how steam rises from a cave-like bath, how each dish is plated on antique Kutani ceramics.
Where You'll Stay
5 room types available
Hanare Arisugawa Suite Villa
Accessed via a wooden corridor through the mountain garden, this is the property's most exclusive accommodation. The villa was originally built without nails by Imperial order in the late 1800s (Meiji era) and renovated in 2023. Set among centuries-old trees, it feels entirely separate from the main inn. Two large tatami rooms, a veranda overlooking the garden, a bedroom with low beds, and a spacious private hot spring bathroom make this the suite to ask for. Maximum capacity: 6 guests.
Low beds
Japanese Style Twin Room
A traditional sukiya-style room with twin low beds, facing the mountain garden. This is the entry-level option at Araya Totoan — no private outdoor bath, but full access to the three communal bathhouses. Refined and quiet with a genuine traditional feel. Indoor bath included.
Twin low bedsJapanese-Western Style Room with Open-Air Bath
The most common room type at Araya Totoan. Features a separate living room and a bedroom with low-profile beds. The private semi open-air bathing area has an aromatic cypress tub filled with free-flowing hot spring water pulled directly from the source. Garden views frame every window.
Low beds
Special Room Ochin-no-Ma
The oldest room in the ryokan, and Rosanjin's personal favorite. It was carefully relocated during renovations to preserve its original atmosphere. Lacquer-coated pillars and vermilion-colored walls are hallmarks of Kaga-region style. The bathroom has a two-tiered, side-by-side semi open-air bath — rare among ryokan rooms and ideal for couples. Can accommodate up to 5 guests.
Low beds on tatamiTwin Room with Open-Air Bath
A Japanese-style room with twin low beds, facing the mountain garden. The terrace has an outdoor hot spring bath — open to the sky — ideal for soaking while watching the seasons change. Clean and simple with garden views from the room itself.
Twin low bedsThe Property
Eat & Drink
2 venues on property
Restaurant
Spa & Wellness
Treatment Menu
On Property
How you'll actually spend your days.
The ryokan's mountain garden dates back to the 17th-century Kanei era and features centenarian trees. It wraps around the property and connects the main building to the Arisugawa Villa. Quiet paths through it are ideal in any season — spring greens, autumn foliage, or snow-covered stillness.
A hot spring footbath outside the ryokan, accessible to guests. Good for warming up between exploring the town and heading back inside.
Original works by Kitaoji Rosanjin are displayed throughout the property: the iconic cawing-crow screen, his first ceramic work (the Ten Red-Painted Plates series), seal engravings, calligraphy, and paintings. The Tea Room Gallery is the dedicated display space. A piece of art history that most guests walk right past — worth slowing down for.
The ryokan provides guidance and transport context for nearby sites: Kosoyu Public Bathhouse (a restored Meiji-era stained-glass bathhouse directly opposite), Rosanjin's Iroha Soan cottage studio, Suda Seika Pottery Kiln, Kutani-yaki Kiln Exhibition Hall (pottery making), Yakuoin Onsenji Temple, and Kakusenkei Gorge. The ryokan can arrange shuttle service within 4km.
Amenities & Practical Info
The details that matter for planning.
Elevator present in the building. Note: despite the elevator, the historic terrain and layout still make this property unsuitable for guests with significant mobility challenges.
Available throughout the property including all guest rooms. Note: some guest reviews mention the Wi-Fi can be inconsistent in certain rooms.
On-site gallery displaying Rosanjin works and curated artworks selected by the proprietor. A small shop is also on-site.
Limited-hours room service available.
Bilingual staff (Japanese and English). Concierge assistance with local sightseeing and transport arrangements.
TV, kettle, tea set, refrigerator (with complimentary soft drinks), hair dryer, safe, air purifier, air conditioning. Full toiletries kit including yukata (light Japanese robe), towels, bath towels, body soap, shampoo/conditioner, facial soap, toothbrush set, razor, shower cap, cotton items.
Free shuttle service from JR Kaga Onsen Station. Must be booked at least 1 day before arrival.
Free parking for up to 30 cars on-site. Valet service also available.
Ruriko (hinoki cypress, largest), Gensenkaku (open-air, spring-source site), and Karasu-yu (meditation bath). Separate by gender, rotated daily so guests get access to all three.
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Rooms, dining, spa, and resort experiences — organized into one trip plan.
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