Haida Gwaii

Haida Gwaii — "Islands of the Haida People" — is an archipelago about 100 km off the northern BC coast, and it operates on its own terms. Around 4,500 people live across seven small towns, and roughly 45% of the population is Haida. That's not a footnote.

It shapes everything: the place names, the art, the rules for who gets to go where, and what's expected of visitors. In February 2025, Prime Minister Trudeau and Haida Nation President Gaagwiis Jason Alsop signed an agreement at a public ceremony in Skidegate, formally transferring land title over more than 200 islands to the Haida people — the first deal of its kind in Canada. Come knowing that you're a guest in a living, sovereign homeland, not just a backdrop for adventure photos.

The Haida Nation runs on two clans — Raven and Eagle — with matriarchal lineage. Governance runs through Hereditary Chiefs. Totem pole raisings aren't tourist spectacles; they're genuine community moments where the whole island shows up.

Sign the Haida Gwaii Pledge before you arrive (haidagwaiipledge.ca). It asks you to walk gently, take only what you need, and respect that some areas and events aren't open to outsiders.

Seafood is the staple on local menus — halibut, salmon, razor clams — because the ocean is central to Haida life, not just the scenery.

Sign the Haida Gwaii Pledge at haidagwaiipledge.ca before you arrive — it's genuinely expected, not just a PR gesture.. Always ask permission before photographing Haida Watchmen, carvers, or locals.

A totem pole is genealogy and spirit, not a postcard prop.. Don't barter for Haida art. Prices are set by the artist and reflect a time-honoured craft tradition.

Haggling is considered disrespectful.. Use 'Indigenous' when referring to the Haida people, not 'Indian' — not geographically correct and considered offensive.. Accept that not all areas or events are open to visitors.

Ancient village sites in Gwaii Haanas are accessible only by air or water, and only through licensed operators — book well in advance.. Bring cash. Some artisans and small vendors don't accept debit or credit.

There are no bank machines in Tlell.. Bring all your medications and any specialty food items. There are no big box stores or large pharmacies anywhere on the islands..

Tipping is customary for tour guides, fishing guides, restaurant staff, and housekeeping — but is not mandatory.. Take only pictures. Rocks, feathers, sand, and artifacts must stay.

This isn't just etiquette; in many cases it's the law.. Anyone you speak with may be directly affected by the legacy of residential schools and colonization. Listen more than you talk.

The islands are physically safe — violent crime is rare in a community of 4,500 people where everyone knows everyone. But logistical safety is a real consideration. The weather flips fast: rain squalls, sudden fog, and wind can change conditions on the water within an hour.

If you're kayaking or boating in Gwaii Haanas or around the outer coast, you need proper gear and ideally a licensed guide. Buy trip cancellation insurance before you go. Weather can ground flights and delay the ferry, sometimes for days.

Check your travel health insurance coverage carefully — serious emergencies may require a helicopter evacuation to Prince Rupert hospital, which is not cheap without coverage. Medical care is available (there are two hospitals on the islands), but specialist care isn't. Bring any prescription medications and specialty food items you need because there are no large pharmacies or big box stores.

Tsunami hazard zone signs are posted in coastal areas — not to alarm you, but know your evacuation routes. And if you're heading into the backcountry or onto remote beaches, tell someone where you're going and when you expect to be back.

There are two ways onto the islands: fly or take the ferry. Air Canada flies daily from Vancouver (YVR) to Sandspit (YZP) on Moresby Island. Pacific Coastal Airlines flies daily from Vancouver's South Terminal to Masset (ZMT).

Inland Air runs seaplanes from Prince Rupert to Masset and Daajing Giids. BC Ferries runs from Prince Rupert to Skidegate Landing, roughly 4–6 days per week depending on the season, and the crossing takes about 8 hours. You can also do the Inside Passage route: ferry from Port Hardy on Vancouver Island to Prince Rupert, then connect to the Haida Gwaii sailing — budget about 15 hours total for that leg.

Reservations are required for both foot passengers and vehicles on the BC Ferries Haida Gwaii route. Book well in advance in summer. Once on the islands, there's no meaningful public transportation.

Highway 16 runs from Skidegate up to Masset on Graham Island — that's the main artery. Car rental is available in Sandspit and Daajing Giids but availability is tight in summer, and reviews of local rental companies are mixed. If you're flying in without a vehicle, either pre-book a rental or plan your trip around a guided multi-day package.

There are no traffic lights between Tlell and Port Clements — in fact, there are only two traffic lights on the entire island system. Bring a paper map or download offline maps before you lose data signal.