Dhaka

Dhaka is not a city that eases you in gently. It drops you straight into the deep end. More than 12 million people in the city proper, 17 million in the wider metro area, and the whole thing plays out on roads that were not designed for this many human beings. It earned the nickname "Rickshaw Capital of the World" for a reason: over 600,000 cycle rickshaws move through here every day, hand-painted and loud, weaving between CNGs and motorcycles and people who have stopped caring about traffic signals. The city has two very distinct personalities. Old Dhaka (Puran Dhaka) runs along the Buriganga River with narrow lanes, crumbling Mughal architecture, wholesale spice markets, and biriyani restaurants that have been operating out of the same shopfront for generations. Then there's New Dhaka: Gulshan, Banani, Baridhara, with their embassies, glass-front coffee shops, and rooftop bars. Both are worth your time. They just require very different energy levels. Bangladesh is majority Muslim, with significant Hindu, Buddhist, and Christian communities. Religious life is woven into the fabric of daily routine. Calls to prayer mark the hours. Mosques on every block. But the city's social scene is wide-ranging. Bangladeshis are genuinely passionate about cricket, music, and theatre. Expect warmth from strangers, invitations you didn't expect, and conversations that start with "which country?" within thirty seconds of sitting down anywhere. The culture values hospitality seriously. Accept it.

Dhaka is rewarding but not a city for careless travel. The biggest practical issues are traffic chaos, petty theft, and occasionally volatile political demonstrations — not constant danger. Most foreign visitors complete trips without serious problems, especially when they stay in Gulshan, Banani, Baridhara, or reputable parts of Dhanmondi. Those neighborhoods have better security and more reliable transport options. Petty theft is real. Pickpocketing happens in crowded markets, transport hubs, and busy commercial streets. Snatch theft targeting phones is a specific risk — don't stand near a road's edge with your phone in your hand. Keep devices inside bags or use them indoors. Do not drink tap water under any circumstances. Use sealed bottled water for drinking and brushing teeth. Skip ice unless you trust the specific venue. Stomach problems from contaminated water are a far more likely travel disruption than street crime. Transport is one of the trickier parts. Roads are badly congested, driving habits feel aggressive to newcomers, and buses are overwhelmingly crowded. Use Uber or Pathao (ride-hailing apps) for metered, transparent pricing. CNG auto-rickshaws are useful but almost never run their meters, so negotiate the fare before you get in. Avoid protests completely. Do not stop to observe, photograph, or try to pass through demonstrations. Roads can close without warning and situations can shift fast. Canadian and Australian government travel advisories note a terrorism threat level that is higher than many major tourist cities. Attacks have been less frequent since 2020, but awareness in crowded public spaces remains important. Women traveling solo will likely attract significant attention, particularly outside Gulshan and Banani. This is mostly curiosity and misplaced concern rather than hostility, but some harassment does occur. Travel in groups where possible and be firm if unwanted attention persists.

Dhaka moves on layers and none of them are fast during rush hour (roughly 8am–7pm). The new Metro Rail (MRT Line 6) is the game-changer. It runs 20.1 kilometers north to south from Uttara North down to Motijheel, covering 16 stations. Trains arrive every 8-10 minutes at peak, and it handles over 100,000 passengers per day. Pick up a Rapid Pass contactless card at any station to skip ticket queues. Travel before 8am or after 7pm to avoid the heaviest crowds. For short hops in Old Dhaka, cycle rickshaws are the only practical option — car lanes don't exist in those alleys. Agree on a price before you sit down. For medium distances, CNGs (compressed natural gas auto-rickshaws) fill the gap. Fares are negotiated, not metered in practice. For longer trips or airport runs, Uber and Pathao are the most transparent options since you get upfront pricing and don't need to communicate your destination verbally. You'll need mobile data to use them. Get a local SIM card (Grameenphone, Robi, or Banglalink) immediately on arrival at Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport arrivals hall. Pathao also offers motorcycle taxis that cut through gridlock significantly faster than cars during peak hours. Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport (DAC) sits about 17km north of downtown. Plan generously for airport transfers — what looks like a 30-minute drive can take 90 minutes at the wrong time of day. Arrive at least 3 hours before international flights and 2 hours before domestic.