
Bahamas (Exuma)
Swimming pigs and pristine cays in paradise
Look, most people think the Bahamas means Nassau cruise ships and crowded beaches. But here's what they're missing: Exuma. This chain of 365 cays stretches across turquoise waters so clear you'll think your eyes are playing tricks on you. And yes, there really are pigs that swim out to greet your boat at Big Major Cay. The whole thing sounds made up until you're floating in Thunderball Grotto or feeding iguanas at Bitter Guana Cay. This isn't your typical Caribbean vacation — it's what happens when nature gets creative and forgets to invite the crowds.
Best Months
JAN · FEB · MAR · APR · NOV · DEC
~27°C · high crowds
Culture & Context
CONCH, SAILING & COMMUNITY
Exuma is 365 islands and cays stretching 130 miles. The vast majority are uninhabited. What people actually mean when they say 'Exuma' is usually Great Exuma, the largest island, with George Town as its capital and commercial center. Everything else requires a boat.
The islands have a deep British colonial heritage — driving is on the left, the pink and white Government Building in George Town was inspired by Government House in Nassau, and the legal system follows British common law. Pirates used the deep water harbor in the 17th century. American Loyalists from Virginia and the Carolinas settled here in the 18th century. That layered history sits quietly in the background while tourists take selfies with swimming pigs.
The culture is built on fishing and sailing. The National Family Island Regatta is not a tourist event — it's a genuine homecoming that the Bahamian community takes seriously. Rake 'n' Scrape music, made with hand saws, accordions, and goat-skin drums, is the soundtrack of any real celebration. Conch is not just food here, it's identity. Fresh conch salad is made in front of you, chopped up with peppers, onions, and lime.
Here's the thing about Exuma that matters: it is genuinely small and community-based. About 7,000 people live on Great Exuma. Everyone knows everyone. The potcake (stray dog) who wanders past the fish fry probably belongs to the woman selling conch at the next stall. That intimacy is the actual draw, not the influencer content.
Local Customs
GREET EVERYONE, TIP GENEROUSLY
Greet everyone. Walk into a shop without saying hello and you've already offended someone. A simple 'good morning' or 'whatchusayin' goes a long way..
Island time is not a joke. Meetings, restaurant service, taxi arrivals — everything runs slower. Build buffer into every plan and don't take it personally..
Swimwear stays at the beach. Cover up when walking into town, restaurants, or anywhere that isn't sand. A sarong or t-shirt is all it takes..
Tip 10–20% at restaurants and always tip your boat captain and guides. These folks are the whole experience.. Drones are banned in the Bahamas.
Don't bring one, don't fly one. This is enforced.. Cannabis and CBD products are illegal in the Bahamas.
That includes gummies and oils. Don't risk it.. Firearms and ammunition are completely prohibited.
Even a single forgotten bullet in your bag can mean arrest and days in custody. Check your luggage carefully before you leave home.. When someone stops to help you (flat tire, directions, anything), it's normal to say thank you with genuine warmth.
Locals have been known to stop 20 times in an hour to help a stranger. Reciprocate the energy.. Ask before photographing local people.
It's basic respect and the community appreciates it.. Support local: the straw market in George Town, Lorraine's bakery in Black Point, Sandpiper Arts and Crafts across from the Peace and Plenty Hotel. These are real businesses run by real people, not chains.
Safety
DRIVE SAFE, TRUST LOCALS
Exuma is consistently rated one of the safest parts of the Bahamas. The U.S. State Department's Level 2 advisory for the Bahamas is focused almost entirely on Nassau and Freeport — not the Family Islands. That said, a few things actually matter here.
Road safety is the real risk. Driving is on the left. Roads have potholes and minimal street lighting outside of George Town. Locals are generally good drivers but the occasional drunk driver at night is a documented concern. Most people recommend avoiding driving after dark. If you hit a flat tire, you'll likely have multiple people stop to help within the hour — it's genuinely that kind of place.
Medical care is limited. George Town has a clinic, but serious emergencies require an airlift to Nassau. Travel insurance with medical evacuation coverage is not optional if you have any existing conditions. Bring your prescription medications; don't count on finding them locally.
On the water, verify that your boat operator is licensed and that the vessel has safety certifications. Boating is not well-regulated in the Bahamas broadly. Check weather before you go out. Nurse sharks at Compass Cay can bite — it's rare, but they're fed regularly and can mistake fingers for food. Look, don't grab.
Petty theft happens, mostly in tourist areas. Don't leave valuables on the beach unattended. Use the hotel safe. Standard common sense applies everywhere.
Getting Around
RENT CAR OR BOAT
You fly into Exuma International Airport (GGT), about 10 miles from George Town. The taxi from the airport to George Town runs around $25, rides are often shared. Taxis don't cruise around looking for fares the way they do in Nassau — you need to arrange one in advance or have your hotel call one for you. Exuma Taxi (ask for Floyd, seriously well-reviewed) is a reliable option.
For most people, renting a car makes the most sense if you're staying more than a couple of days. Rental starts at $65–70/day for a small car. All rentals are family-owned operations at or near the airport. There are no Hertz or Avis signs here. You drive on the left. There's a gas station near GGT (Rubis), one at Farmer's Hill, and the Shell station in George Town. Gas stations close by midday on Sundays, so plan ahead.
Getting to Stocking Island means a water taxi from the Government Dock in George Town or from Augusta Bay. Captain Elvis Ferguson runs the most-mentioned service — $15 per person roundtrip from the Government Dock to Chat 'n' Chill, $20 from Augusta Bay. The roundtrip to Coconut Club runs $25 according to recent traveler reports.
For the actual cays (swimming pigs, Thunderball Grotto, Compass Cay sharks, sandbars), you're looking at either a group boat tour ($200–250/person for a full day) or a private charter ($400–600/day). Book during high season and Regatta week well in advance. The outer cays in the Exuma Land and Sea Park are accessible only by boat. In the cays themselves, golf carts and walking are how you get around once you land.
Useful Phrases
Itineraries coming soon
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Money-Saving Tips
- 1.Book boat charters directly with local captains instead of through resorts — you'll save 30-40% and get more personalized service
- 2.Bring your own snorkel gear to avoid $15-20 daily rental fees that add up quickly
- 3.Stock up on groceries and drinks on Great Exuma before boat trips — marina prices are double what you'll pay in Georgetown
- 4.Visit during shoulder season (May or November) for 40% lower accommodation rates and fewer crowds at popular spots
- 5.Split boat charter costs with other travelers — many captains can accommodate 8 people for the same price as 4
- 6.Pack reef-safe sunscreen from home — SPF 50 costs $25+ at local shops and selection is limited
Travel Tips
- •Bring waterproof phone cases and extra batteries — you'll be on boats all day with limited charging options
- •Pack light-colored, long-sleeve shirts for sun protection during long boat rides
- •Download offline maps before leaving Nassau — cell service is spotty around the outer cays
- •Bring cash in small bills — many local operators prefer cash and can't always make change for large bills
- •Book accommodations well in advance for peak season (December-March) — options are extremely limited
- •Consider staying multiple nights to reduce travel stress and see more remote cays that require longer boat rides
Frequently Asked Questions
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